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Hiking In Japan

It doesn't take anyone long to realize that Japan is a mountainous country. In fact, 75% of the country is mountainous forest, with plentiful national parks. There are established hiking trails in nearly every corner of the country, and hiking is popular amongst middle-aged Japanese, though curiously less so amongst the young. Most cities in Japan have some hiking within easy reach, making a day trip very possible. For multi-day hikes, it's best to travel to one of the national parks. Most of the hiking in Japan is fairly strenuous, because of the nature of the terrain, but it is possible to find something for every ability. In some regions, such as the Kii Peninsula (south of Osaka), and Nikko (north of Tokyo), walking is a wonderful way to reach less-accessible shrines and temples, small rustic villages, and see a different side of the country.

Maps

Most of Japan's popular hiking areas are well-mapped, and there are two good series of maps published specifically for hikers. Shobunsha publish a 'yama to kogen chizu' (Mountain and highland) series, all 1:40,000 and priced at ¥714 each without tax. Zenrin publish a similar series, 'tozan haikingu' (Mountain climbing and hiking), also priced at ¥714, but slightly smaller scale at 1:50,000.

All these maps are in Japanese only, so it is worth familiarizing yourself with the names of mountains and symbols such as water before heading out. Probably the best resources for outdoor pursuits in Japan is 'Hiking in Japan' published by Lonely Planet. Another book by the same title is 'Hiking in Japan,' published by Kodansha and written by Paul Hunt. They both describes each region in Japan, and gives descriptions of hikes throughout the country as well as useful background information.

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I was flying over Japan on one of my overseas trip when we caught a majestic sight of Mount Fuji's apex just peeking out of the sea of clouds under us and it was beautiful. And I thought to myself, geez I have stood on the tip of that mountain!
Japan is a mountainous country and the hiking here is wonderful. The mandatory (at least for Japanese) hot spring after the hike is heavenly. Not to mention the cherry blossom covered hills, the quaint mountain huts and the way Japanese greet each other along the path. And you cannot say you have traveled Japan until you have scaled Mount Fuji. So put on your hiking boots at least once in Japan. I am sure you will not leave disappointed.
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Needless to say, if you can read Japanese, there are armfuls of guides to walking, climbing, kayaking, cycling, and just about every outdoor pursuit you can think of.

Another way of becoming familiar with hiking conditions, and seeing what hikes are available in your area is by joining a local club or group. In the Kansai area both Kansai Ramblers and IOC organize hikes often on Sundays with a mixture of foreign and Japanese members. Kansai Time Out magazine usually has them listed. In Tokyo the IAC organize walks in the surrounding mountains with some longer trips occasionally.

Walks organized by Japanese clubs are often in very large groups (I counted 80 hikers in one group I met!). Several foreign tour operators offer seasonal guided walks in Japan, and they might be a good alternative to organizing it yourself if you are coming from abroad. If you live in the Kansai area, and speak some Japanese, the Kintetsu railway line have a special program for hikers which include route maps and descriptions, and rewards for walks completed.

Equipment

For many day hikes near large cities you need nothing more than comfortable shoes and clothes, and a small backpack to carry the essentials. In the summer months when Japan is very hot and humid, make sure you have light clothing such as cotton, and carry plenty of liquid. Water is the best, and be careful about beer and even tea or coffee, which can dehydrate you.
Hiking gear is readily available in Japan, though foreigners with large feet may have difficulty in finding boots their size. Prices are comparable to Europe, though more expensive than North America. The selection is very good, however, and you should find everything you need. It can also be cost effective to order outdoor from the Mountain Equipment Coop in Canada, or REI in the US. Even with shipping charges, it can be a good saving over Japanese prices.

Areas for Hiking

There are thousands of place around Japan where you can take to the trails, but I will give a quick run-down of the main areas from south to north.
Yakushima has to be one of the hiking highlights of Japan (if not in Asia), with its primeval rain forest of giant cedar trees called yakusugi. The three-day hike across the island, located just south of Kyushu, is a classic, but high rainfall means that you should be well equipped.
Kyushu has several great areas to explore, including Kirishima, with its dormant volcanic peaks, the very popular Mount Aso, and the less-visited but equally splendid Kuju. The island of Shikoku is home to Mount Ishizuchi, one of the highest mountains in western Japan, and well off the beaten track.

In Kansai, head south to the Kii Peninsula. There are several different mountain ranges, and the area is remote and steeped in history. You can tour the area, hiking different peaks, and soak yourself in some of the abundant hot springs.
Closer to Osaka there are good day-hikes in the Ikoma hills to the east, and to the north of Kob around Mount Rokko. Kyoto is also well-placed, with strenuous hikes in the mountains to the north, west of Lake Biwa.

The Chubu region is home to Japan's highest peaks, and there is a huge variety of hiking here, from simple forest walks to serious mountain climbing. The main ranges are Japan Alps, divided into the Minami, Chuo, and Kita ranges. Practically every prefecture in the region has high mountain terrain, but you should be well-prepared (and have suitable experience) for any of the serious stuff. Due to its popularity, the area has extensive facilities and accommodation, and there are telecabins to save you much of the grinding ascent.

Mount Fuji must surely be Japan's most famous mountain, and offers a unique hiking opportunity. It is climbed by thousands of people each year, and is not a difficult hike, but is physically demanding. In season, it is usually so crowded that there is a long line of people snaking its way upwards. Beautiful though it may be from afar, up close the beauty disappears, and most people who have climbed it say they are glad they have done it, but didn't particularly enjoy the experience.

Tokyoites escape from the city by hiking in the hills to the west at places such as Okutama, but is also possible to visit Nikko and its wonderful national park in a long day trip (though you should really stay a few nights). Heading north, the Tohoku region has several mountain ranges, though none as high as the Japan Alps.
Bandai Kogen, Dewa Sanzen, Hachimantai, and the Hokkoda mountains all offer good hiking in summer, but winter conditions are particularly severe. Hokkaido is less mountainous than other parts of Japan, but still has some fabulous hiking. Daisetsuzan National Park has miles of trails, and there is the Sounkyo Gorge to explore. The islands of Rishiri and Rebun off the western coast are popular in summer for their remoteness and lovely walking. Lastly, the peninsula of Shiretoko juts out into the Okhotsk Sea, and is a true wilderness. It offers challenging multi-day hikes for the experienced walker with some hot springs along the way.

Seasons for hiking

Summers can be uncomfortably hot in most of Japan (except parts of Tohoku and Hokkaido), and strenuous activity is the last thing on many people's minds. However, the mountains, particularly where forested (most of the time) are usually cooler, and often quite pleasant even in August. The opportunity to dip in cool mountain streams adds to the attraction. Spring and autumn are fine in most parts of the country, but except in the south, mountains over 1500 metres will usually be covered in snow until April. In Tohoku and Hokkaido the season is shorter, and high mountains (over 3000 metres) in the Japan Alps only have a short summer season (and hence the crowds).
What is a gentle hike in the summer can turn into a major undertaking in winter, with the need for ice axe and crampons. Never use a hiking guide or map as a guide for winter climbing, as they were written for summer hikes. It is possible to get out into the mountains in winter, but relevant experience is needed, and always check the latest conditions before you go.