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Nikko & Tokugawa Ieyasu

God's gift

A political hostage at the tender age of four and eventually dying from an over-indulgence in tempura, Tokugawa leyasu led an eventful life. By 18 he had been kidnapped, held captive for 12 years, fought his first battle, married and fathered a child (both the wife and child he later disembowelled). He was also Shogun and founded the present capital Tokyo (Edo). Finally in 1605 he passed the position of Shogun to his son and retired to a castle in Shizuoka to take up falconry and to transcribe the Buddhist invocation namuamidabutsu on a scroll 10m long.

leyasu also had one burning ambition: to become a gongen-sama [a reincarnation of Buddha]. On the advice of a priest he chose the holy mountain Futara-san at Nikko as the site for his mausoleum, which he named Tosho-gu (meaning eastern Light). Unfortunately he died in 1616, before his mausoleum was complete, but in his will he stated that he should be enshrined at Nikko as a god within one year of his death. Accordingly, his remains were transferred to Nikko the following year in a magnificent procession that is still re-enacted today.

In an awesome display of wealth and power, Ieyasu's grandson totally rebuilt the shrine, ensuring that it was so ornate, it could never be rivaled. The face-Lift included 500kg of gold, 370kg of silver, timbers that would stretch for 530km if laid end to end. In total 4.5 million men worked on the project, which took 20 years to complete.

In addition to the main shrine there is a five-storey pagoda, the Sacred Gates, Store House and the Sacred Stable, which is the home to the famous monkey carving. There are actually eight monkey friezes that depict the ideals of life in the 1600's-to avoid unreasonable ambition, shun quarrels and strife, filial piety and to create a happy and peaceful life. The only carving that is readily identifiable, and the one that everyone takes photos of, is the one suggesting that children should, "hear, see and speak no evil and learn only that which is good." Inside the Sacred Stable is a sacred horse, a present from the New Zealand government.

Above an archway Leading to Futarasan Shrine is the famous but small sleeping cat sculpture, Nemuri Neko, which is easily missed. Beyond the archway over 200 stone steps lead up to a small shrine that doesn't really warrant the long steep climb. Be sure to stop outside of the temple-shrine complex and see the beautiful vermilion Sacred Bridge. According to Legend, when the monk Shodo Shonin arrived in Nikko he couldn't cross the Daiya river so he prayed and two serpents appeared and created the bridge so he could reach the mountains. The bridge is currently under renovation and will re-open March 2003.

After sightseeing you can head back to the station by way of the souvenir shops. Although every shrine and temple is surrounded by stalls selling key chains, ema wish boards and other Lucky charms, you may wish to buy one of the other local souvenirs. Popular items include nikko-bori wood carvings of flowers, on everything from coasters to tables and waterproof wooden geta clogs for use in the snowy mountains. Jingoro sembei, rice crackers marked with the kanji for left (hidari) in memory of Hidari Jingoro, the sculpter of the sleeping cat, are also a good omiyage for colleagues. And finally for the return journey get a bottle of Nikko Beer "brewed since 1999."

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